Kelpsey

Use a laser printer and transfer paper.
quote…..

1. Get a Laser Printer. … Most laser printers print with iron, which is a stable and safe ceramic material.
2. Buy the Transfer Paper needed to print.
3. Print Your images from the laser printer on the decal paper and increase the contrast for best results. (Photoshop Works Best).
4. Cut out the images, and soak them in water.
5. Once the film separates apply to an already glazed surface and smooth the wrinkles out.
6. Fire to cone 04 or higher, and you have an image on ceramics! (Goes great in a bisque kiln).

…unquote.

I really should get my own kiln.
Then I can really play with glazing temps and the extra-runny (read pretty) glazes.

I like this artist quite a bit – so much character and emotion in her pieces.
Each piece starts with 800-2,000 lbs of wet clay.  She sculpts, divides, hollows, fires & then puts them back together.
I watched a lot of the cartoon version of Watership Down when I was young, maybe that’s why I like these pieces.

… No, not that type.
Here is my 1st whale tail pot.
Good tail form and gray shino color.
Could have used a little more glaze (oasis blue + opal) or an opaque color.
Would be extra cool to have glass on lid to be more “watery”.
I tried to mimic the effect with clear glaze over oasis blue.
This failed and looks like crud.
‘Barnacles’ could have been applied over gray shino, instead of directly to bisque ware.
Crackly from hurried removal from kiln.
Given as a present to my Mum.

This pottery is amazing – the vibrant yellow color comes from Uranium, the green from a small amount of Nickel and a bit of Silver Nitrate for overall vibrancy.
I am in the process of acquiring one of these unique pieces from the artist, William Melstrom.
You can also learn about glaze crystal growth dynamics from his website.
On a side note, Silver Nitrate will dye your skin black. For a short time  I had a small silver nitrate star “tattoo” in H.S., if only I had used it for glazes instead!